Food Adventure Parte Dos!

I'm starting to realize that all I do in Bogotá is stuff my face...hhhm. Good thing I joined a running club.

 Here are Tacos at La Verdad. I like them a lot- this was about 15 mil. But don't ever try the Azteca Lasagna- Ugh! On my way to find bigger and better Mexican food in Colombia...if it exists.

These two are from Crepes and Waffles, one of Colombia's most popular food chains. Its fancy and the crepes, both sweet and savory, are delicious. Above is the Sopa del Sol. I think its like a pumpkin/squash soup with a cracker and cheese dipped in. Its simply fall in a bowl! To the right is the Baby Doll dessert. Its a crepe filled with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and bananas. On top, theres whipped cream, chocolate sauce, and nuts. Its absolutely divine. And Crepes and Waffles also has a large selection of gourmet ice cream flavors. 

 The next three are from an Afro-Colombian owned restaurant called Del Pacifico. The first picture is Cazuelo de Mariscos- a scrumptious soup with bits of shrimp, octopus, lobster, fish, and crab. 


Next are the side dishes. Ignore the sorry ass salad (I'm convinced Colombians don't know what a real salad is) and here you have arroz de coco, coconut rice, and a patacón, basically a twice fried green plantain, usually eaten with guacomole, cheese, or salsa on top. 



Last is fried fish. Although Colombian use no seasonings in cooking their meats, this is actually very good. As my Colombian friend said to me "El Carne tiene sabor!" The meat has taste/flavor...Ugh no. Try telling that to my grandmother who treats Lawry's like its a God. 

  

These two are from Masa. One of my favorite Brunch spots, here is a Veggie Frittata and macchiato. They have an amazing bakery where you can get all kinds of breads, croissants, and sweet goodies, including the chocolate chocolate cookie. Delicious! 

At 1492, which has an amazing 6 mil happy hour on cocktail drinks, the food is also incredible, yet pricey :-/....

This is a huge plantain filled with chicken, covered in cheese and marinara (?) sauce. Its amazing! And worth the 30 mil it costs.

The Never-Ending Race Debate

I have never felt more conscious of my "race" than here in Colombia. It isn't really commonplace in the States to just yell at someone on the street "Hey Black! Black! Black!" 

But here they do it all the time- morena, negrita, negra....Umm yea I don't like it. Yes I know they call my Gringa counterparts, mona, for Blond...but I really don't think its the same thing. Theres no history of a slavery for mona in Colombia is there?

Given Colombia's and the US' histories regarding slavery, discrimination, and prejudice, wouldn't racialized nicknames be disrespectful or insensitive? And doesn't saying "hermosa, sexy morena" point to an issue of how Black women's bodies have historically been sexualized and exoticized by western culture? 

You may think I'm being overly sensitive. Its just their culture right? I felt a little like that as well. Like I was trying to relate US ideas of race to Colombia, and it would never work. 

YET, my Afro-Colombian girlfriends hate those names too. 

After telling them about my experiences, they said the same thing happens to them and I need to speak up about it. Call people out on it. They even mentioned the same issues I said above, constantly referring to Black women as sexual objects and unnecessarily highlighting someone different than yourself. A man on the street called me Negra Negra Negra! And I spoke to him and said "Please don't call me Negra". I said PLEASE.  In response he began to yell at me even louder shouting "Negra Negra Negra" in the entire market. It was embarrassing and I was so angry. My gringa colleague justified it saying "Its just their culture". I guess that easier to say when you're the mona and not the morena. 

Maybe the reasoning for why my Afro-Colombian friends and I hate these nicknames is too sensitive or taking it overboard. But If we are offended it by it- doesn't it mean that its too soon to put these nicknames on us? Is there a possibility, tiny one, that Afro-Colombians and Afro-Gringos still face vestiges of racism in their daily lives and calling them Black or Negra is just too insensitive for what they have gone through?

When I arrived to Colombia I learned very quickly not to call myself an "American." I was annoyed at this. I didn't mean to be arrogant. All my life I have been used to calling my nationality- "American!" But, it wasn't so much my intention, but how people perceived it. Although you don't mean to offend me by calling me Negrita, you do. 

It has taken me a long time to write this post and I have been meaning to. Not only do I feel over-racialized, but I have friends, White Gringos and White Colombians that think its ok to say these things to me. It was making me really depressed, like I couldn't trust my friends and I just needed to get out of Bogotá. It would be interesting to have convos with some gringos, and them being so surprised at the name calling, or even- oh my god- that racism still exists in the States! Wow. 

I didn't want to lose my friends by bringing up this issue, so I just let it simmer in my mind. Making me more sad about my experience here. 

But the other day, I spoke to one of my Colombian friends about it. And he was so understanding. At the end of the convo, he said that it was really important for him to talk about this. He had been scared to bring it up, and was glad that we came to an understanding. 

What I forgot to tell him is that, that I was even more grateful. It was nice to feel comfortable to talk about an issue that plagues me with a friend. Maybe he didn't understand everything. But he was willing to listen. And that made a big difference. 

Maybe both sides just need to stop being scared of one another and take the plunge. We'll be surprised what we discover. 

Food Adventures!

Like the Bougie Washingtonian I am-I set out very quickly to find the best and tastiest restaurants in Bogotá. The only reason I haven't gained weight is because I walk ALL the time. This is a first of many Food Posts!

Here are a couple pics of my food adventures....

 

The first is at a Mexican Restaurant called "La Verdad," in La Macarena. These are enchiladas in the red sauce, but you have an option for the green or the mole (chocolate sauce, but makes for a sweet-savory combination). As you see on the side, they include the red sauce, green, guacamole, mole, and a black bean paste. It was soo good! Actually, I'll say some of the best mexican food I've had. Although, I think I'm only accustomed to Tex-Mex in the states.

 After I ate at "La Verdad" I walked across the street to "Artesano" which is a lovely Cafe. The only issue is that its teeny!! I had the wild berry pie, which they heat up and add a scoop of ice cream, along with an expresso. Not a coffee drinker, but you have to in Colombia. "Artesano" is great, they have several other desserts which I plan on trying as well as some salads and wraps.

This is a Wok fusion restaurant called "Pralala." Its very nice! Most of the food is Wok, and this particular dish was a shrimp and noodle wok with italian spices. Don't ask me how it works, it just does! "Pralala" is also in La Macarena, basically my spot. 

The next two are "truer" Colombian restaurants...even though in general, I don't eat a lot of Colombian food. The first is called "La Ruta" in Teusaquillo. It is a roasted chicken with rice, criolla potatoes (love them!!), rice and salad. Since Colombians don't believe in salt or any seasoning, it tastes better with a little soy sauce on top. I know...but it makes sense when you think less and just eat. THe restaurant only makes two dishes per day, and its a flat rate of 12 mil for an appetizer main dish, drink, and teeny dessert (I mean it. they might as well not even give the dessert). The juice in the picture is Maracuya, Passion Fruit. The other is at "Andres D.C." in Zona T. This is good! Perfectly grilled chicken with a bbq sauce and yuca on the side. The meat was succulent and crispy. However Andres is a bit expensive. I had a mojito too! Soooo good, but like 20 mil, which is a lot. Here I was at a Fulbright event. 

My last picture is a glass of wine at one of my favorite cafes "Luvina." Wine is damn expensive in Colombia. But every now and then I indulge :)

No Afros in Bogotá???

Every time I meet someone and I tell them I'm doing Afro-Colombian studies, they're like "Well I think you should go to _____________ (insert Cali, Chocó, or Buenaventura), they're isn't really a strong presence here in Bogotá"

I always felt so annoyed when people said this. Something about it just didn't seem intelligent-lol. So I asked my Advisor, and she went IN. She clearly noted a large population of young Afro-Colombians, and that most Afro-Colombians live in the cities. She noted that each time someone sees a Black person in Bogotá they say, "Y usted de donde es?" and when they say Bogotá, they're like, "pero su familia es del Pacificó si?" 

She then gave me a couple of articles to read, based on the DANE census. Ok. theres something wrong with this perception. There is a difference between a percentage and actual numbers. Bogotá is spread out, and its population is larger than cities in the Pacific. Yes there are Black people here, and there has been for several years, and they weren't all recent migrants. 

This reminds me of how I felt in DC, when every time I said I was from DC, Yuppies would be like "Ohhh, but, like, I mean, no one's actually from DC". Uhh, shut your mouth and eat your brunch. You don't anything about DC, just focusing on your limited perception of who comprises your happy hour meet ups and yoga classes. You wouldn't know that a large population of people were pushed out of DC to Maryland to make room for a gentrified city. 

While these are two examples are quite disparate, I think its a good discussion about perception, and delving deeper than a superficial idea of what DC or Bogotá is. There is a whole group of people that you could miss because you're stuck in Zona T (Bogotá) or in Georgetown, DC (btw did you know that Georgetown was an all Black neighborhood years ago?). Its so important to read the history, walk around in new neighborhoods, or you could loose an enriching experience.  Feel free to leave comments! I love a good debate!

Names Names Names

I have decided to take on a Colombian name. No, its not because I don't like my name. Simply because I wanted one! Also, I found it easier in several busy transactions in the bank, supermarket, or deliveries to just give a fake Colombian name. But after a while, I just thought-why not take up a name altogether? 

Out of no fault of their own, several of my friends pronounce my name like Nakooochie. Which makes me cringe. Although I understand. The sound "sh" doesn't exist in spanish. I searched for a name, took many suggestions, but I like Pilar. All my Colombian friends say "its not beautiful, why not Mañuela? Tania? Beatriz?" Uhmm its not about being pretty or sounding cool. Its just something that I felt fit me. 

Yes its alright to continue calling me Naakoshie, but I'll have you know I have been called several names by different people. Exchange students in my high school used to call me "Vale", the italians mainly. Also, I actually didn't even know my name was Naakoshie until the age of 8, when my Grandmother told me that my parents had been lying to me! Yes who does that? And...my older sister is named Naakoshie, in addition to several cousins. So half of my family even calls me Awurama (my middle name!)

So many people hate the Name change and even refuse to use it. Ok I won't fight with you. But its something I like, a sort of souvenir of my time in Colombia. 

And the Existential Melt-Down continues

Ok I've been trying my hardest to be "calm, cool, and sexy" about things. But I gotta keep it real. This past month has been a lot. Like I took a second to evaluate all the things that transpired in my life this summer:

• I quit my job in June
• Cut off all my locks- best decision of the summer!
• I broke up with my boyfriend- not my favorite moment. 
• MOVED to another country, where I didn't know ANYONE and barely spoke their language (in the words of another Fulbrighter "its all a lie! I don't actually speak spanish!")
• Meanwhile trying to figure out new graduate school plans, scholarships, GRE

Like...maybe I should give myself credit. At first I was like "why am I not assimilating to this culture fast enough?" "whats wrong with my gringa accent?" "Why don't I understand how to get from x to z?"

But in reality, I need to stop putting so much pressure on myself. Take it easy. Things are not going to happen the way I expect. Such as my research. Which I had to completely change a week ago. Yes thats right, start from scratch-everything. 

Sometimes I'm sitting on a little collectivo, my legs barely fitting in the seats (because no one in Bogotá is taller than 5 feet!), and I look at the people and I'm like "How the heck did I end up in Colombia, South America?" "Like what the hell am I doing?"

I'm here to do research, and even that is another puzzle. 

This is one of the biggest lessons I will face in patience. Instead of pressuring myself with all these ridiculous questions that waste time an energy, I just need to chill. What's an experience without a healthy challenge? 

One month in

Bogotá is growing on me! At least I hope...Well it actually doesn't matter because I'll be here until May anyway.

No, but I am starting to feel a bit of familiarity. I'm building my schedule, I've started to walk more around my neighborhood, I take those busetas or collectivos, for those of you who are from Brooklyn or Accra, these are similar to the dollar van or tro tros, respectively...

A word about the Busetas:

I love them! The cost about 80 cents to ride and you can stop the bus anywhere you need! However, there are some downsides. You can stop the bus anywhere you need! I have not been on one where someone has gotten off on the highway, but what they have done on the highway is left the doors wide open. You have to keep a hold on your belongings because anything, and maybe your body, could just fall out. 

So Imagine this scenario, there are no bus stops, you just flag down one of the busetas and the bus driver picks you up. Thats convenient right?! I remember the Howard University shuttle refusing to pick up anyone who wasn't at a stop. The Bogotanos do it all the time.


I also figured out the transmilenio (Bogotás above ground subway)! Maybe its not a big deal to people from big cities...but I think you should see this map. 

Other than my advancements with the transmilenio and busetas, I actually took a bus out side the city to go to the Hot Springs. The ride there was scenic, long and comfortable, about an hour. We caught the bus at the AutoPisto Norte and it dropped us off at a random location in the forest. Luckily the hot springs resort was just a 10 min walk away.

When it was time to come back, however, it was an entirely different situation. We stood randomly on the road, with nothing but greenery for miles, hoping for a bus to catch us. Several came by, but were full, or not accepting standing riders. Finally we got on one and got to stand for about 20 minutes, before word got out that there was a police check point about a mile away! Oh no! All the people standing had to get off the bus...

And do what?

Walk on the highway to meet the bus after the checkpoint. We walked about 1/4 of a mile. And then the bus found us again, and we stood for the rest of the time back to bogotá.

I wish I had taken pictures of our faces running across a highway and standing in the middle of no where waiting for a bus. This was literally the craziest thing I have done in Bogotá yet (and the most tiring). I don't really need to beat my record. :p

Into the frying pan!

I finally moved into a permanent apartment! Yay! I have a maid, my own bathroom and cable- yes I was a bit shocked, especially because its not that expensive. I can even walk to class, which is a blessing considering the traffic is horrendous.

I've also started classes- which has been interesting. I'm actually not sure if I am physically signed up for these courses, because the registration for foreign students is really complicated. However, I am taking a course with a visiting Professor from Brazil, which I truly LOVE! The class in on Social movements and race in Brazil. Since I am in the class, we attempt to center the discussion on the development of race in Brazil, Colombia, and the US (coincidentally the three countries with the largest populations of afro-descendents). Its really cool, and gives me an opportunity to see the development of racism in new perspectives. 

The other two classes are almost the same thing, but not really. Under the guidance of my Research Director I am doing a sort of internship with a University Working Group that is centered on Race, Identity, Social Inclusion, and Inequality. I work on my research and participate in all of the events and projects of the Working group. The other class is a Research Methods class, of which my Research Director leads. 

Why am I undertaking so much work? Well, if you're not in a PhD program during your Fulbright, you are required to take at least 3 classes...I think they should amend the rule a little. Especially because you have to do it all as soon as you get here, in the case of Colombia, because we leave before the next semester ends. C'est la vie. 

In other news, I've joined a women's group that meets on Saturdays to share experiences on what it means to be Black and Female. Currently we are exploring the issue of stereotypes, and me being the gringo, I have to bring information about stereotypes from the US. 

My time in Colombia has been filled with several lessons (yes it has, I know I've only been here for 3 weeks), especially the lesson in patience. But my spirit has sincerely been enriched through my contacts with other Afro-Colombians and the Professor from Brazil. I  am working on developing a more interesting essay about this, but there is something really grasping about the connectivity and relationships between groups of afro-descendents in the Americas. Although I was not a history major, every time I listen to perspectives from Blacks here, my mind jumps to my experiences and my Afro-American History class in High School (taught by an American-Polish person- it was great!). What were the processes of integration in Colombia? In the US? What did it mean to be an ex-slave in Colombia vs. the US? What is the notion of pride in the Afro-Latino community?

Yes I know its totally random, but these things are swimming around my mind...I will find a better way to express myself. 

Today I was mistaken for an Afro-Colombian from Chocó! I was so happy. 

Tryna find my home....

Its been over a week in Bogota, and some interesting things have developed. A part from meeting a random guy in an Internet Cafe and going salsa dancing with him (yes I know this was not a smart idea-but I'm safe!), I have been fiercely trying to find an apartment/ roommate. Yes, I am so thankful for this Fulbright grant, but damn, can they help me with a room? Lol, I mean, I'm basically staying in a halfway house/hostel. I would really like to get my bearings straight...


But the other Fulbrighters are very nice and interesting! I expected people to be kinda in to themselves, but everyone is so humble, gracious, and intelligent. Our cohort is really chill and I love to talk/hang with them. Very cool people...


People in Bogota are very nice indeed! Everyone says "buenos dias" or "buenas trades" depending the time- and they are really helpful. Today an administrator from the Oficina de Relaciones Internationales, ORI, walked me at least a mile to where I needed to go on campus! Super Amable! I say that because La Universidad Nacional is HUGE! And he didn't mind walking me from one end to the next...Also, can I take this opportunity to mention that the University has a farm on the property? Love it. Maybe this is quite common, but I'm from the city, and its so crazy/cool to walk past a sheep in the grass! There are also cows and horses. Maybe this is for the sciences department?

I'd like to end this post on a good note with a picture of the beautiful mountains in Bogota- they run north to south, so every time you see them you know you are looking east.